Thakoon Spring 2023 ready-to-wear collection

New York Fashion Week answers the same questions in slightly different ways each year. What will be the silhouette of the season? Who are the breakout designers? Are the seams in recession? Thakoon Panichgul doesn’t focus on providing the most up-to-date answers, but on refining his take on the “female tomboy.” “I feel more than ever that it’s better to be focused,” he says. “I think it’s about refining the silhouette, the finish and the sensibility rather than offering too much variety.”

I wonder how it feels as a designer to be in the mindset of improving what is already there in your work rather than trying to add something new. “It’s refreshing because I’ve always been a product person. In every other creative industry, whether it’s cars or furniture, you keep refining and making it better,” he says. “There doesn’t have to be a novelty that keeps deviating from last season.”

Given this framework, this season’s garments feel open to a wide range of customers and are not additions to the Thakoon woman’s wardrobe. Striped shirts, bloused shorts and trapeze shaped tops and dresses could slip into any of the collections Thakoon has showcased since relaunching his brand in 2019. But he introduced a quilted striped jacket (or maybe reintroduced is a better term as a similar style was in his very first collection), bandana prints and a cool top and dress combining bows and cut-outs at the front. It turns out there are countless ways to transform cotton poplin.

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