June edition of London Fashion Week – WWD
Don’t confuse him with the Sheffield United footballer of the same name. In fashion, Ben Osborn is a Royal College of Art graduate who will be unveiling his Spring 2022 collection at London Fashion Week on Monday: Discovery Lab.
Construction, materiality and proportion are three key words for the brand. The designer’s goal is to create a certain feeling through combinations of surfaces and shapes that move in a certain way.
“I generate ideas through production and material procurement with the aim of creating products that are very focused, without too many peripheral elements. I have a pretty technical approach to the process. I like things to have a sense of reality with an ease that feels believable, ”he said.
As a designer of menswear, Osborn often ponders the idea of masculinity and recognizes certain aspects that feel left out. He is attracted to things that feel fragile or that form around the body in a certain way.
For the new collection, Osborn was inspired by furniture, protective uniforms and historical tailoring and explored the idea of a “wearable environment”.
“Over the past year I’ve been thinking about living spaces, making connections with your immediate surroundings, combining clothes that feel intimate and the behavior you have in a personal space. I like the fact that we are now starting to move back to more public situations so I’m drawn to the idea that you can carry around with you that pretty intimate sense of personal space, ”he said.
The collection includes both constructed and unconstructed shapes made from durable materials like waxed linen, certified cotton and canvases sourced in the UK, combined with more intimate materials like soft cotton shirts from Italy and hand-knitted sweaters made from cotton yarn.
As a young brand, Osborn is open to collaborations with a larger company or with an individual or a small team in a more intimate way. He’s also considering a more flexible option for consumers, such as the option for bespoke, limited edition, and archived models.
“I like the idea that a consumer can be more involved in the creative process,” he said.
The Lancaster-based contemporary label LYPH, which stands for Live Young Play Hard, is founded by Frederick Edmondson, the creative director of the Chinese sportswear giant Li-Ning, who oversees European special lines and collaborations for Hong Kong for the group. Bossini fashion brand.
Edmondson told WWD that after more than 12 years in the fashion business, he founded LYPH because he wanted to create a brand “with attitude and courage” and a brand that “doesn’t start with safe ideas”.
He added that “artistic references and downright insane thinking” are the starting point for his design for LYPH.
For Spring 2022, Edmondson goes back in time and reflects on what brought him to the arts in the first place, including “Teenage Movies That Inspired, Music Tours that Pushed the Boundaries, and Artistic Direction that Paved the Way for Him.” how Bob Dylan’s 1975 tour “Rolling Thunder” created cult films like Terry Gilliam’s “Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas”, Tony Scott’s “True Romance” and David Lynch films.
He described the result as “an idea of chaos for this new future-oriented society” and “the strange meets the beautiful”, where tracksuits are made from upcycled surpluses with animal prints and penny loafers with recycled children’s pearls.
The designer confessed that without the knowledge and information he gained from working with large international companies like Li-Ning, he couldn’t build LYPH anytime soon.
“Working with the Li-Ning Group is great,” he said. “Your resources and development techniques are very future-oriented. It’s nice to work with Chinese factories again. The attention to detail and the development skills of the Li-Ning factories enable us to develop products that LYPH would normally not be able to produce due to the size of my company. “
Looking ahead, LYPH is working on a deal for a great collaboration and expanding its presence in China, Europe and the US. The brand also plans to return to physical format with a much larger Fall 2022 collection next season if the pandemic is under control.
The London-based label founded by Central Saint Martins graduate Samson Shek Yen Leung aims to pursue “altruism and honesty through the acceptance of imperfections in craftsmanship and subtle details”. His personal goal with the brand is to “raise the standard of Asian craftsmanship and talent”.
“I often describe my work as ‘silent masculinity’ and imagine that the handcrafted elements in my pieces express a sense of discreet sensuality that is poetic and subtle,” he said. “My creations are not about being loud, flashy and extravagant; Instead, I focus on evoking and celebrating emotions that my audience can relate to. “
For the Spring 2022 “Gentle Living” collection, which was inspired by works of art by Danish painter Vilhelm Hammershøi, Leung says he makes clothes for the gentle, sensitive and calm who are ready to accept their vulnerability with confidence and appreciate handmade craftsmanship .
He presented his interpretation in the form of landscape painting on his self-developed material, which is the expression in traditional Chinese art.
Although the pandemic has been challenging, Leung is determined to get the brand up and running. “I don’t think there is ever a definite right or wrong time to start a brand. A good brand should be able to adapt to different circumstances – I’ve learned that from almost seven years at Central Saint Martins, ”he said.
“With COVID-19, sourcing and manufacturing have been difficult, so the majority of what I create now is made to order and dealt with small wholesale orders. But hopefully I can scale it down and show my brand in other places like Shanghai or Paris, ”he added.
Swedish Malaysian designer Azura Lovisa is expanding her eco-conscious slow fashion brand with the release of a 10-minute video “Moment, Momentum” in collaboration with south London record label Touching Bass during the June edition of London Fashion Week.
The brand will offer a “See now, buy now” capsule with classic styles in new colors and a small edition of handmade jewelry inspired by Southeast Asian shamanism, created in collaboration with jewelry designers Tanaporn Wongsa and Birgit Frietman.
Lovisa said she launched her brand because she had “an urgent need for richer, more inclusive narrative that testifies to the fluidity and depth of aesthetic legacy from other parts of the world,” as a result of a lack of nuanced exposure to non- Western cultures noted during her training at Central Saint Martins.
“I see the non-Western aesthetic legacy as a starting point for a re-evaluation of what fashion history and thus the future of fashion can be,” she said. “I’m driven by the urge to explore my own mixed heritage and interpret the exciting, unpredictable things that happen at the intersections and seams of culture. I wanted to carry on through my work the power of the possibilities that result from the collision and amalgamation of multicultural influences. “
The designer added that the brand ultimately aims to grow into a design house that “is anchored in the world of fashion, encompassing film, writing and publishing, art exhibitions, curation and programming, other areas of design and social missions – all of them and directed “. through the Ethos of the Brand ”while strengthening relationships with artisans and handlovers in South and Southeast Asia and partnering with socially responsible creative initiatives that provide autonomy and support to manufacturers.
“We deliver a language of equality and acceptance,” says designer Mayya Agayeva, founder of her sustainable unisex gender fluid label. She launched her brand in 2020 after graduating from the Royal College of Art.
“As a child I loved painting and sculpting with oil. Eventually I went to university to study architecture, but then I decided to switch to fashion. For me it was all a very organic change. I believe that all visual and 3D art are related. I feel like the creative process is a loop where you end up going back to where you started, ”she said.
Now she often searches for forms in her childhood and architecture and finds inspiration from social taboos.
“My design is constantly evolving due to the contrast between masculine and feminine. I perceive reality through the relationship between social norms and a post-modern dystopia based on the philosophy of sustainable design, ”added the designer.
For spring 2022, Agayeva focused on garments in multiple sizes and silhouettes made from dead inventory and recycled fabrics.
“Clothes can change shape to match the narrative of the person who wears them. It can be worn by people of all sizes, shapes, and genders, ”she said.
For the remainder of 2021, Agayeva plans to work with artists, poets and filmmakers to create “more beautiful, sustainable and timeless clothes”.
Men’s fashion designer Paolo Carzana will make his debut at London Fashion Week with the spring 2022 collection called “Another World”.
This Central Saint Martins graduate said his new collection “is very focused on an alternative gesture to the world today” and is “an acknowledgment of all that is painful in such a divided world and is working to achieve a place where on which there is a focus can be on the wonderful. “
He used antique deadstock ties that he bought at Portobello Market years ago, antique Welsh quilts that were hand-draped and painted with natural pigments, and a mixture of homemade natural dyes over bamboo silk and organic cotton to make the garments to develop.
Carzana will also showcase a small selection of handcrafted handbags made from hundreds of pieces of pineapple leather.
The designer said he fell in love with fashion when his art teacher at Cardiff, Wales high school showed him a book of Gianni Versace’s work with nature rather than against it. “
He hopes his works can find their way into a small number of stores as he continues The Another World Project, which he began in 2019. The project aims to raise awareness and financial support for LGBTQ homeless youth and mental health financing in the UK and Italy and provide financial assistance.