Haider Ackermann and Fila take Manchester by storm in this year’s most unexpected collaboration
If this was the spirit Ackermann hoped to reawaken, the runway show’s organized chaos contributed to it; A beam of white light shot down the runway as the models walked at different speeds, huddled together in intentionally rhythmic slipstreams that were surprisingly satisfying to watch. It also included an impressive array of recognizable faces: Stella Maxwell, Rebecca Longendyke, Lily McMenamy and, for the final look, none other than Anok Yai in an optical white stretch bodysuit, a parka and cape fluttering behind her.
Then to the dresses, which, despite all the other bells and whistles, made for perhaps the most unexpected facet of the show overall. Ackermann is notoriously logo-averse; You’ll rarely find a contrasting stitch that marks him as the creator of one of his carefully tailored jackets or razor-sharp trousers. Overcoming this fear of getting into sportswear was not easy for Ackermann at first. “We live in a world that’s all about logos and branding, and as you can see, I never wear logos,” he says, pointing to his (very logoless) white sweater and chuckling. “But confronting it and embracing something that’s not mine is an intriguing challenge.”